The Italian Job: Identità London
The day Italy’s top chefs came to London. David J Constable digests Identità London 2011…
‘Fragrant. Delicate. Savoury. With a fine grainy texture….’ Is the eloquent advertised description of Grana Padano, however it could very easily be used to define the Italians and their olive oil tones. Even when shouting and asserting their command during the run-up to Identità, there’s an air of romance and spiraling linguistic confusion in place.
I’m early and am sitting with a LavAzza espresso (one of the Identità sponsors). Various rooms of the Edwardian Bethnal Green Town Hall are being filled with sponsorship stands, Monograno Felicetti exhibitions, Grana Padano demonstrations, and travel-tired chefs from the expanse of Italy. It’s as if I’m witnessing the run through of an unrehearsed opera.
